Make Your Own Potted Plant
You can create beautiful displays using many kinds of garden plants for seasonal interest. Containers come into their own when you are re-doing your garden, digging up flower beds, move your plants into pots and keep the colour in your garden.
Which type of pot should you chose, there are so many on the market, but if you are only looking for temporary pots, taking a walk on public footpaths through farms that have grazing animals, the farmers supply minerals in buckets to the animals over the winter time, when empty the wind blows these into the hedges or up against the fence, take them home, drill a few holes in the bottom and you have a free pot for your plants.
On the market you will find several different types to choose from:
Clay or Terracotta
Looks very attractive, but tends to dry out more quickly than plastic. Clay or terracotta pots are also prone to cracking caused by frost. Look out for frost-proof pots, or stand pots on 'feet' over winter to prevent them becoming waterlogged, therefore reducing the risk of frost damage. May be more expensive.
Plastic
Pots are lighter than clay and don't dry out as much as clay or terracotta. There is now a wide range of plastic pots available - some even look like terracotta pots and may be cheaper but not as authentic in appearance.
Metal
This is a very popular material, with a modern look. Metal containers are frost-proof and won't dry out like clay. The problem is they heat up quickly in summer, and likewise, are very cold in winter. The other potential problem is corrosion.
Wood
Half barrels are popular for growing fruit trees. Wood is problematic in that it rots. You can extend the lifespan of a wooden container by lining it with plastic sheeting with holes in the bottom and painting the wood with a preserver.
Other materials
Empty compost bags are ideal for growing potatoes. Other household items such as old pots, baths, jars and tins also make quirky containers. remember to take a walk on them public footpaths you may be surprised what you will find.
Making your own potted plant
For large pots, either make sure that you do not have to move it once you have finished, or place it on a small trolley with caster, you can buy these at any good garden center, remember to place some feet under the pot to make sure you have a gap for water to escape between the pot and the trolley.
A pot with multiple holes in the base is ideal to allow excess water to drain out.
If the pot has only one central hole, add crocks at the bottom of the pot; this will prevent soil from leaching out the hole.
Add a peat-free multi-purpose compost to about three-quarters full. Now you can add plants.
Consider a central focal plant: perhaps a tall plant with notable foliage or an annual climber climbing up a central support.
Contrasting colours or contrasting textures make intriguing displays. Try trailing plants, Helichrysum or Lysmachia to spill over the container edge.
Leave 5cm (2in) between the top of the soil and the top of the container. This will prevent compost from spilling over the edge when watering.
When placing containers in their final position consider placing them on pot feet so that excess water drains freely away; they are also easier to move into another position when slightly raised.
Now you have made your potted plant you need to watch after it:
Maintain an even water supply and ensure good drainage to prevent waterlogging (use pot feet).
A spell of rain may be insufficient for plants in containers, as the plant leaves act as an umbrella for vital rain. Check the moisture level of the soil after rain to see if you need to water the container manually. More information
Apply a high-nitrogen liquid fertilizer if plants look yellow or tired and high-potassium liquid fertilizer for flowering and fruiting crops.
More information on maintenance of potted plants
Planting
Plant in early spring so that plants quickly put out roots and become established. Autumn planting may lead to losses from waterlogging and evergreens may deteriorate over winter from dryness at the roots or wind-burn of the foliage.
Watering
Watering is one of the most important jobs when growing plants in containers. Not enough water will cause plants to dry out, and maybe die. On the other hand, overwatering is very damaging as most plants do not like sitting in water. See the advice below on summer care and winter care for information on watering plants in containers.
Feeding
See the advice below on summer care and winter care for information on feeding plants in containers.
Re-potting
Plant roots eventually fill containers and this often reduces growth. This is not necessarily a bad thing as slightly stressed plants are often attractive and the slower growth reduces the maintenance needed. However, eventually the plant will need to be moved to a bigger container or the compost refreshed in the same pot, as composts lose their structure over time. Shrubs and trees that stay in a pot for years are especially vulnerable unless re-potted.
These steps will ensure success when re-potting into a larger container:
When moving plants to a larger container, (one size larger at each stage), re-pot in early spring as soon as they show signs of growth
Remove a little of the old compost, slide the plant out and tease out roots, cutting them if necessary
When it is no longer convenient to re-pot them every year into a bigger pot, they should be re-potted in the same pot at least every other year. Replace one-third of existing compost and roots with fresh compost
In years when re-potting is not carried out, top dress by removing 5cm (2in) old compost from the top of the pot and replacing with fresh compost.
Summer care
Plants in containers need attention all year, but summer is the most critical period as plants can soon run short of water and nutrients.
Watering
Check for moisture daily from April to September (twice daily in hot weather)
Water thoroughly, filling the container to the rim and allowing it to drain, then filling it a second time to ensure that the whole of the compost is adequately moistened
If water is not draining out freely, check the drainage holes for blockage and assess compost structure – as the organic components decay, the compost becomes soggy, dense and lacking in air spaces
Lining or sealing terracotta pots with waterproof materials is unlikely to significantly reduce the need to water as most water is lost though plant leaves
Grouping pots for mutual shade will reduce heat stress on pots
Mulching pots will help reduce heating and suppress weeds, but as most water is lost through plant leaves careful watering will still be needed
Feeding
From April to the end of August use a general-purpose proprietary liquid feed or, preferably, a high-nitrogen feed
Alternatively, add a controlled-release fertilizer at planting time
With soil-less compost, make sure fertilizer includes essential trace elements
Feed when the compost is moist
Winter care
In winter, the main danger is compost freezing, which may kill plants.
Frost protection
Protect pots with bubble plastic or bring them under temporary cover
In very wet periods move plants under temporary cover if the compost becomes sodden, until it has dried out a little. The ‘rain shadow’ of walls can be sufficient
In wet weather, raise pots up off the ground on ‘feet’ or similar to keep the bottom of the pot out of the water
Remove saucers in winter
Watering
Watering may still be necessary for conifers and other evergreens, especially if you have moved them under cover, so that they receive no rain. Check evergreens and conifers at least weekly and water if needed
Watering is seldom necessary for deciduous or other dormant plants
Feeding is not necessary during the winter months
Problems
Overwatering is the most common cause of loss of container plants; watering should aim to keep the compost moist, never soggy and avoid alternating dryness and saturation.
Plants grown in containers suffer from many of the same pests and diseases as when grown in beds and borders, such as aphids, algae, liverworts and moss and scale insects. Vine weevil and fungus gnats are particularly common pests of container-grown plants.
This article was inspired by Royal Horticultural Society
